Broken Hill is a destination I have wanted to return to since we last visited several years ago. It is a city steeped in history and Architecture and interesting things which we simply did not have time to investigate on our previous visit. I named our trip the Broken Hill trip as this was to be the apex of our journey and we scheduled 5 days to ensure we had enough time to settle in and really enjoy the stay.
Getting There
We pulled out of Lake Pamamaroo and took Menindee Road toward Broken Hill. The trip took 1 hr 12 min (113 km) and was a pleasant and easy drive.
Our destination was The Broken Hill Racecourse Campground. We had researched this prior to our visit, and I was aware that they did not allow pegs in the ground there due to the irrigation system and offered water drums to hold down awnings. The campground is on the outskirts of the City in a fairly isolated area. We passed through the gates, and I noticed with amusement the Racecourse was named St Patrick's Racecourse making me feel my Irish Heritage and right at home.
We were given a grassy site right in front of the racecourse, so I reversed in and set up our Van. We got a powered site as we wanted to charge up batteries after our stint at Menindee. The Grounds had several vans however were well spaced giving depth to the experience.
That afternoon and just like our Tamworth stay the Harness trots came for a run around the track only this time we had a grandstand view.
The Miners Memorial
Broken Hill is a destination like no other I have ever witnessed. Driving into the center of the City The Line of Load rises up like a giant mountain in front of you. It is visible from all parts of City. The top of the hill is flat for what appears to be several kilometers and right on top is an imposing and magnificent structure called the Miners memorial. This is like a mirage in the desert, an unreal vision so large it draws you in and makes you feel an immense sense of history here in this isolated part of Australia. The memorial is well worth the visit if not only for the fantastic view of Broken hill and also of course the history of the City and the mining memorabilia.
Architecture
My love of early Architecture is one of the reasons I wanted to come back here. There is a wealth of early – era Victorian Architecture which I wanted to investigate. To name a few we paid a visit to the restored Trades Hall which was the beginning of the labour movement in Australia. The Post office federation building, the Synagogue Museum and of course the old corrugated iron Mosque museum dating back to the Afghan Cameleers who played a crucial role in building and maintaining life in the harsh outback.
The Junction Mine headframe is a massive wooden structure and dates back to the 1890’s. It stands high over the City and is a testament to the early mining in Broken Hill. We drove up to view this and were surprised at the sprawling view of the City below.
Daydream Mine Tour
Our first trip was 33km from Broken Hill near Silverton. The mine owner and operator was a real character and when the group was full assembled we were all given hard hats and were taken underground. The mine is supported by very rickety looking timber columns and beams and my first thought on entering the mine was this is totally crazy as it looks very unstable. However, we proceeded into the depths of the mine ducking low rock overhangs and some quite steep descents.
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| Would you go down a mine with this person? |
This was a silver mine which operated before Broken Hill even existed. It was a very harsh environment and we witnessed how tough life the miners of the time led. We were treated to Devonshire tea with scones and cream to complete our tour.
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| One of the rickey supports holding the whole ceiling |
Broken Hill Galleries
There are approximately 30-plus galleries so choosing what to see in our time here was never going to be easy.
Sharon read about his life and early years in Broken Hill. He worked in the mines for over 20 years before realising his true vocation as an artist. There are many pictures in the gallery depicting his early years and the people he encountered both good and bad are portrayed in his images. We also visited the Jack Absalom gallery as I remember him as adventurer in my early days in Australia. Other Artwork is displayed in the Palace Hotel (featured in the movie “Pricilla Queen of the Desert”), by Gordon Way and the famous Badger Bates an indigenous Artist for Wilcannia whose works can be viewed in the Sculptures in the Desert.
Sculptures With A View
One of our biggest regrets on our previous visit was not going to see the Living Desert Sculptures. This is something I became aware of only after we had been to Broken hill, and I have always planned to return and explore. This is located within the Living Desert Reserve around 9km form the city. The Sculptures feature 12 huge stone carvings by artists from all around the world.
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| My Favourite was Bajo El Sol Jaguar by Antonio Nava Tiardo from Mexico |
Sharon and I took our time and took lots of photos and were so impressed we returned at sunset to capture the impressive artwork against the setting sun.
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| At dusk |
This was an exciting and memorable experience and one of the most interesting parts of our stay.
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| Angels of the sun & moon |
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| Horse by Rustavi Georgia |
Earlier in the day we walked thought the sanctuary lower down the hill. The Sanctuary is surrounded by an electrical fence, and you have to pass through a gate to get in. The sun was directly overhead and very hot and sadly we ended up cutting it fairly short.
Silver City Mint and Art Centre
With a title of the world’s largest acrylic painting on canvass we had to go an take a peek. A couple we had met at Cobar earlier in our trip advised it was well worth the visit. The Big Picture as it is called depicts the landscape around Broken Hill all indoors and viewed from a central platform. This is an impressive display, and the artist took several years to complete all the murals.
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| Part of the Big picture showing the level of detail |
You can see the sky meet the landscape and an abundant mix of wildlife and bird life is displayed in minute detail. Soft music is played in the background and you could imagine you are actually in the middle of nature. There are lots of other memorabilia displayed in the store and I was impressed by the local talent and abundant and inventive metal sculptures for sale, especially the garden windmills. Another time I would have purchased however this is one of the sacrifices we make if we want to travel.
Dining Out
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| Dinner at the Astra in Broken Hill |
We had dinner out in the Center of Broken Hill. As we had Gemma we were restricted to a pub with a Beer Garden. This was excellent and we had dinner with a view in the afternoon heat.
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| Ever been to a 50's Milk Bar. One of the many interesting places to dine |
Silverton
We next visited nearby Silverton which is a historic town established before Broken Hill.
If you could imagine a wild west town in outback Australia then Silverton is it. Tumble weeds were rolling across the flat plains as we approached. The main street is wide and empty with a few dwellings spread throughout the landscape. It is build on the desert plains and everything appears to be covered in a layer of the desert dust just blown off the expanse.
Our first stop was the beautifully restored Silverton Gaol Museum. This was full of displays of memorabilia and the original cells are still intact.
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| Sturt Desert pea with its strange ET look in the entry garden |
They had a Hibernian display that dated back to the 1880's and an Orange order display right alongside just to keep things interesting. This is the last thing I expected in such an isolated little museum
Lunch in the Silverton Hotel. 
We dined in the beer garden shared with large Squawking birds anxious to get what ever leftovers we left behind 
Just across the street we went off to view the quirky John Dynon Gallery.
The Artist was quite the character and I was amazed not only by his amazing artwork from emu paintings to pained VW, s and a large array of bicycles and the like all formed into some strange and interesting pieces.
I was totally amazed when I stepped inside his little shed which is simply that, there was no fancy air conditioner, in fact his studio was directly under the tin roof and I could only imagine how difficult it would be to work in there when the temperature hits the high 30-40, s.
Sharon noticed one of his paintings which consisted of several emu’s portrayed in Jockey outfits was similar to the Muriel back at the racecourse and turns out It was painted by him.
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| Fantastic work |
We purchased some items and had it been a different sort of trip I would have purchased some of his more expensive works as it would be an investment in my opinion as his works were simply stunning and could only increase in value.
We visited some of the other galleries in the area but in my opinion, this is the one you must see.
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| No its not Sharon in there |
Our final visit was to Silverton Cemetery which has some very old headstones. Most of the population died young in the harsh environment and Typhoid was rampant as no fresh water or fruit / vegetables were available at the time.
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| Lonely grave of an Irish Immigrant. One could only imagine ending up in this wasteland so far from home |
Many of the graves had heartfelt inscriptions about their loved ones
Leaving Silverton, we paid an early visit to Mundi Mundi lookout which provides a sprawling lookout and said to have spectacular sunsets. Unfortunately, it was too early for us, but the view was still very special.
Broken hill has so much to see and do it makes this place well worth the visit. From its isolated location it is an oasis in the desert and while we did not see everything, I felt satisfied we covered the things we came here for. It is a destination well worth the visit and for aspiring visitors I cannot recommend this place more highly.
